Title OBLIKOVANJE RADNIH METODA U TEHNOLOŠKOM PROCESU ŠIVANJA
Title (english) DESIGN OF WORK METHODS IN THE TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF SEWING
Author Snježana Kirin
Mentor Anica Hursa Šajatović (mentor)
Committee member Snježana Firšt Rogale (predsjednik povjerenstva)
Committee member Anica Hursa Šajatović (član povjerenstva)
Committee member Tanja Jurčević-Lulić (član povjerenstva)
Granter University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology Zagreb
Defense date and country 2020-12-16, Croatia
Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline TECHNICAL SCIENCES Textile Technology Clothing Technology
Universal decimal classification (UDC ) 677 - Textile industry
Abstract U doktorskom radu istraživane su radne metode i opterećenje radnica u tehnološkom procesu šivanja. U okviru istraživanja razrađeni su i postavljeni standardni sklopovi pokreta pomoćno ručnih zahvata tehnoloških operacija šivanja primjenom MTM (Method Time Measurement) sustava unaprijed određenih vremena. S obzirom na veličinu izratka, položaj svežnjeva, zakrivljenost i duljinu šava te način polaganja krojnih slojeva, za zahvat uzimanja razrađeno je i postavljeno deset načina izvođenja. Za zahvat međusobnog postavljanja razrađeno je pet načina, a za zahvat pozicioniranja tri načina izvođenja. U tehnološkom zahvatu šivanja razrađene su četiri načina vođenja izratka, tri načina učvršćivanja šava, četiri načina odsijecanja konca, četiri načina vođenja primjenom pomoćnih naprava, pet načina izvođenja zahvata tijekom prekida šivanja. Za zahvat odlaganja izratka razrađena su tri načina izvođenja te devet načina izvođenja pratećih pokreta. Pojedini pomoćno ručni zahvati sadržani u tehnološkoj operaciji šivanja prikazani su kao mogući standardni sklopovi pokreta ovisno o veličini izratka, oblikovanju radnih mjesta, veličini i obliku radnih površina te stupnju tehničke opremljenosti šivaćih strojeva. Vrijeme strojno-ručnog zahvata šivanja ravnih i zakrivljenih šavova utvrđeno je primjenom RAV i ZAK metode. Primjenljivost definiranih standardnih sklopova pokreta istražena je snimanjem i analizom karakterističnih operacija šivanja muškog sakoa u realnim sustavima proizvodnje. Za snimljene tehnološke operacije napravljena je analiza metode rada, tlocrtni prikaz oblikovanog radnog mjesta, određen vremenski normativ, utvrđeni parametri radne okoline (temperatura, relativna vlažnost, osvjetljenje, buka i dr.), utvrđena su radna opterećenja primjenom OWAS metode i analiza stanja radnog mjesta pomoću OADM metode. Napravljena je MTM analiza korištenjem standardnih sklopova pokreta za pomoćno ručne zahvate koji su definirani u okviru doktorskog rada te uz primjenu RAV i ZAK metode za strojno-ručne zahvate šivanja izračunata su vremena izvođenja tehnoloških operacija. Kako bi se ubrzao i olakšao proces izračunavanja normalnih vremena i vremenskih normativa, temeljem prikupljenih rezultata istraživanja, napravljeno je programsko rješenje u programu Microsoft Access®, za koje je prethodno izvršeno hijerarhijsko cikličko strukturiranje modela sklopova pokreta i elementarnih pokreta za obradu i pohranu unutar relacijskih baza podataka. VI Temeljem provedenih istraživanja, sustavne analize prikupljenih podataka i dobivenih rezultata, dokazana je primjenljivost definiranih sklopova pokreta zahvata tehnoloških operacija šivanja korištenjem MTM metode u realnim sustavima proizvodnje odjeće.
Abstract (english) The doctoral thesis analyses the working methods and workload of workers in the technological sewing process. As part of the research, standard sets of motions of hand suboperations of technological sewing operations using the MTM (Method Time Measurement) system of predetermined times were developed and set up. Considering the size of the workpiece, the position of the bundles, the curvature and length of the seams, the arrangement of the workpiece layers and the method of laying the cutting layers, ten execution methods were developed for the taking suboperation. Five methods were developed for the suboperation of putting together, and three execution methods for the suboperation of positioning. In the technological suboperation of sewing four methods of workpiece guidance, three methods of seam bartacking, four methods of thread cutting, four methods of guiding using auxiliary devices and five methods of performing the suboperation in case of sewing interruption were developed. For the suboperation of laying off the workpiece three execution methods and nine methods of auxiliary motions were developed .Individual auxiliary hand suboperations contained in the technological sewing operation are presented as possible standard sets of motions depending on the size of the workpiece, the design of workplaces, the size and shape of work surfaces and the level of technical equipment of sewing machines. The time of the machine-hand suboperation of sewing straight and curved seams was determined by the application of the RAV and ZAK methods. The applicability of the defined standard sets of motions was investigated by recording and analysing the characteristic operations of sewing a men's jacket in real production systems. For the recorded technological operations, an analysis of the working method was performed, floor plan of the designed workplace was given, time norm, parameters of the working environment (temperature, relative humidity, lighting, noise, etc.) and workloads using the OWAS method and analysis of the workplace using the OADM method were determined. MTM analysis was performed using standard sets of motions for auxiliary hand suboperations defined in the doctoral thesis, and using RAV and ZAK methods for machine-hand sewing suboperations, the times of performing technological operations were calculated.. In order to speed up and facilitate the process of calculating normal times and time norms, based on the collected research results, a software solution was created in Microsoft Access®, for which a hierarchical cyclic structuring of models of set of motions and elementary motions for processing and storage within relational databases was previously performed. VIII Based on the conducted research, systematic analysis of the collected data and the obtained results, the applicability of the defined sets of motions of technological sewing operations using the MTM method in real clothing production systems has been proven.
Keywords
odjevno inženjerstvo
tehnološka operacija šivanja
radne metode
standardni sklopovi pokreta
MTM sustav
Keywords (english)
clothing engineering
technological sewing operation
working methods
standard sets of motions
MTM system
Language croatian
URN:NBN urn:nbn:hr:201:613877
Promotion 2021
Study programme Title: Textile Science and Technology Study programme type: university Study level: postgraduate Academic / professional title: doktor/doktorica znanosti, područje tehničkih znanosti, polje tekstilna tehnologija (doktor/doktorica znanosti, područje tehničkih znanosti, polje tekstilna tehnologija)
Type of resource Text
File origin Born digital
Access conditions Access restricted to students and staff of home institution
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Created on 2021-02-22 08:11:35